Friday, November 1, 2013

"You'll follow me back with the sun in your eyes, and on your own, bedshaped with legs of stone."

When you read this, I’ll be in Turkey, which marks the fourth country out of five I’ll be visiting this semester, unless something unexpected happens.

Sorry I missed last week’s post.  Fridays can be tough, because I’m such a party animal and all.

Here’s what’s up in my life.  I have written a series of vignettes for your enjoyment.

Oh, might as well listen to this while you read.  Keane is one of my favorite bands of all time.  Sure, they washed out a little bit with their later work, but there's some really quality earlier career stuff, don't doubt.  This song is called "Bedshaped."


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My dad and I have a premonition that by this time next year, I’ll be clinically insane.  Ten weeks isolated on the shores of the Chesapeake Bay will do that to you.  The bright-eyed, bushy-tailed little intern will slowly decay into something more sinister.  My first weekend, alone for forty-eight hours, will be spent plugging away at my future-Pulitzer Prize winning novel.  My ninth will feature me staring out the window, listening to Creedence Clearwater’s “Have You Ever Seen the Rain” on repeat, tearing my hair out due to intense loneliness and writer’s block.

What I mean to say is that the NOAA internship opportunities have been posted, and there are none in Southern California so I’ve applied to one in Boulder, CO and one in Gloucester Point, VA.  The latter looks like an incredible opportunity, but the site’s isolation, distance from major airports, and sole internship opportunity (meaning I won’t have any college-aged colleagues) means that I’ll be left largely on my own.  And if that doesn’t promise a descent into insanity, I don’t know what does.

Or it could just be the start of my professional canoeing career, who knows.

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Before my Grandma Bobbie passed away, she wrote this essay about the things in this world she would miss after she was gone.  She also wrote some incredible family histories about getting to visit the Russian Ballet in the 20’s and stories from my grandpa’s life that may or may not be entirely true (for example, how could she know his grandmother was teased for having bright red hair as a child?).  However, if anyone knew that kind of stuff, it was her.

Regardless, there’s this one paragraph in her writing, from a passage that begins “Now that I am very old and can look back through a typically American life, I know what I'll miss most when I am dead.” I’ve pasted it below.

Googled.
“O.K., here's the biggie! What human child from an early age does not recognize as beautiful beyond description, the works of Egyptian artists of early history? Instant affinity for the mask of gold of King Tut... the most perfect artwork every created and how privileged we all have been to see it.”

Now, I’ve always kind of laughed to myself about that, because I don’t think they’re the “most perfect artwork ever created,” but I thought of her when I read this paragraph out of my history book about the Mediterranean.

“[The bust of Queen Nefertiti] suggests that she was one of the most ravishingly beautiful women who ever lived. Neither the Greeks nor the Romans, nor even the greatest sculptors of the Italian Renaissance, were ever to portray her equal.  If ancient Egypt had produced no other work of art than this, those three millennia would still have been worth while.”

In short, my grandma is pretty awesome.

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Last Sunday, I went hiking to the highest point in the province of Madrid.  The mountain called itself Peñalara.  It’s 7,965 feet above sea level, which is high enough to provide great views of Segovia and maybe the Pyrenees.  I went with my friend Tyler and we had a relaxed ascent and a rushed descent to catch the train on time, making for a nice 7.5 mile hike.

When I got home, I ate a well-deserved white chocolate ice cream.  All of the white chocolate ice creams are left at the end because I eat the “classic” and almond ones first.  White chocolate is a dumb imposter and it will always be picked last in the gym class that is my freezer.  That said, I still eat it eventually.

To the left is a mountain used for skiing soonish.  There is a dearth of snow at the moment.

Not sure what the 100 year anniversary obelisk is celebrating.
Behind us is Segovia, but my camera kind of sucks.
Because bulls with bells around their necks roaming public trails is a normal phenomenon here.
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On Friday, I went to El Escorial, which is the Royal Monastery of Spain.  There’s no way to describe how awesome it was, but I’ll give you a few sentences and then just make you look at pictures.  Philip II built it, and he was a devout guy so he basically said “make it monumental but not overly-lavish, keep it about my man God.”  And they did a pretty good job fulfilling his expectations.  It’s got lots of paintings, which we weren’t allowed to take picture of.  Most notably, El Greco, and this royal painter guy who did a great copy of Van Der Weyden’s “The Descent.”  Actually, most notable was this incredible Hall of Battles and a crazy awesome ceiling.  Pictures will explain.
Wikipedia
Wikipedia
Google
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That’s about it for me this week.  I hope Turkey fulfills all of my expectations and I can get away without any type of sickness or bodily harm.

Keep it real, friends.
-Rachael

P.S. This week, I realized I have enough time to earn a Minor in Literature.  That is good news.  My current Lit prof liked my midterm comparing the Semetic and Grecian creation stories.  Pandora makes Eve seem like the heroine of Genesis.

10 comments:

  1. This post is an emotional rollercoaster with the music you included as background music. I'm getting all sobby seeing you and Tyler on the mountain (it was the music) and then filled with joy at the monastery (again, the music). Also, your gma is freaking great. A funny and insightful woman.

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  2. My favorite Keane songs are "Nothing in my way" and "Crystal Ball"

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  3. When would you be in either Boulder or Gloucester Point? If it's in the summer, Boulder is very close to some exceptional hiking. About an hour away from Rocky Mountain National Park, and closer to other mountains.

    Great pictures. Glad you are making the most of your study abroad experience, i.e. enjoying the outdoors on top of all the cultural stuff that everybody does.

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  4. Next summer for 8 weeks, June to August. The location of Boulder is perfect; lots of mountain biking, hiking, young people, nice atmosphere, and the likelihood of my parents visiting would be about tripled.

    It's just the differential between the opportunities themselves. The Gloucester Point stuff is something I see myself doing as a career if I go in the science direction. The Boulder one interests me less.

    Thanks! I'm really glad we got to go hiking. It was a great day trip. That hike plus Montserrat, plus hopefully a trip to Cuenca which is supposed to be really outdoorsy.

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  5. I guess you'll be able to hike and be a generally outdoorsy person for the rest of your life, so this particular decision should weigh career/future more than awesome place. Opportunities to advance your career in a specific direction must be harder to come by than opportunities to mountain bike.
    I'm sure you'll be happy either way.

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  6. El Escorial es la mierda. One of the sight-seeing highlights of my summer. Did you check out the Habsburgs' map collection there? So cool. My favorite room was El Panteón de los Reyes, where all the kings of Spain are buried.

    You mentioned El Escorial's copy of Rogier's "Descent from the Cross." If you're curious, Rogier's original is in Madrid. It's two rooms away from the El Bosco room in the Prado. Check it out! (Also, look up the Prado's free hours, if you haven't already! The line looks really long when it's free, but it moves super fast.)

    While you were there, did you get a chance to check out Valle de los Caidos, which is just a few miles (or kilometers, more relevantly) from El Escorial?

    Hope you are enjoying your time in Spain.

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  7. Derek-- My thoughts exactly. No complaints from me-- either way I'll be getting a great opportunity and the chance to spend a lot of time outside in beautiful surroundings.

    Cole-- I LOVED El Escorial. I'm glad you made it there The maps were awesome. The Panteón blew my mind. What a fantastic room. It was hard to know where to look, it was all so bright and shiny.

    Ooh, I need to go back. I went to the Prado and saw Las Meninas and lots from our friend Goya, but I didn't want to tackle it all at once, especially since students get in free all the time with I.D. My "Art of the Renaissance" class only studied 50 works (though in great detail) and it's amazing how many I'll have seen in person by the end of the semester. Very exciting stuff.

    No, I didn't go to la Valle de los Caidos. I'm deciding if I want to go. I talked to my host mom and professor about it. A really interesting day to go would be November 20th, because that's when Franco supporters show up every year... but I don't particularly want to be associated with them, either. But it would be quite an experience.

    Everyone-- Visit for Thanksgiving and I'll take you hiking/Escorialing/paddle boating in el Retiro! That is all.

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  8. The Panteón room does lots of mind-blowing, definitely. And now we know where all the material wealth of the Western Hemisphere went. Into making those tombs fancy.

    I went to the Prado three times; it never got old. There's enough to compartmentalize your visits and focus on different parts of the museum each time. You seem to have the right idea. And while the Prado is tops (I liked it better than even the Louvre or the Uffizi), don't forget Madrid's other two world-class art museums (Reina Sofia and Thyssen)!

    Valle de los Caidos is really interesting. It's a church... in a cave. Really dark and somber inside. I won't soon forget that experience. The 500-ft-tall cross (world's largest) is closed for political reasons, FYI. But it's still worth the trip.

    Have you been to / made plans to visit Granada yet? You're not allowed back until you do.

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  9. Hahaha funnily enough, I'll be on my way their in 14 1/2 hours. We're doing Cordoba and Granada this weekend.

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  10. Yay! The mosque in Córdoba is really cool and historic, but there's not much else in the city. Granada, on the other hand, was my favorite place in Europe. I'm sure you'll do the whole Alhambra thing (book in advance!), but make sure you also wander the narrow streets of the Albayzín quarter. A maze of Moorish hilltop streets, it feels more like Morocco than Europe (or at least what I imagine Morocco feeling like). Most importantly, be at the San Nicolas viewpoint plaza (tucked in the middle of the Albayzín) at sunset! You'll never forget it.

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